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A Good Meal and a Decent Pint

The Star at Kirkhamgate

reviewed for Edition 45 of the Wakefield CAMRA Magazine, O-to-K, Autumn 2010 �2010

Batley Road, Kirkhamgate, WF2 0RZ, 212 bus route

On this occasion our gastronomic tour takes us to the far reaches of our branch area (well it is for me anyway). The Star at Kirkhamgate is our destination; it can be found on the Batley Road which runs between the bottom of Westgate and, rather unsurprisingly, Batley. Approaching from Wakefield, the village lies in a pleasant semi-rural setting with panoramic views of the M1. The pub itself is as close to the M1 as it could possibly be and right by the Wakefield boundary sign. There is far less traffic noise than one might expect. Bus 212 will take you there, as will the 100 if you prefer the scenic route. It has a very well preserved John Smiths exterior, reminding one of the sort of place you would have gone miles to avoid 30 years ago due to a complete lack of real ale. Entering by the front door, take care to turn left for the bar or you will end up in the ladies' toilet. The bar area is very pleasant and "front room-y".  There are cushions everywhere, toby jugs abound and I feel sorry for whoever has to clean the vast array of copper and brassware. Look out for the mobile phone the size of a brick. At the rear there is a small restaurant area leading to a very large restaurant area. Food is obviously a major feature here. Outside at the rear there is a vast beer garden cum adventure playground.

There were two handpumps on the bar, both dispensing a decent pint of Copper Dragon Golden Pippin at  �2.70, a price we are becoming increasingly used to.

Get your beer and sit down and peruse the menu; you will need a while. There's anything you could possibly want. A good value lunchtime only menu has sandwiches, jacket potatoes and Yorkshires; an extensive � la carte menu has starters mostly under �5 and mains mostly under �10. There are salads too as well as a Sunday lunch menu at �10.25. The early bird menu at �7.25 for 2 courses looks a particularly good deal  (1730-1900 Mon-Fri, 1700-1830 Sat and Sun). I shall try this menu on another occasion as one particular starter tempts me: "Shallow Fried Spam Fritters with a Coriander and Tomato Sauce". There's also a good specials board with dishes like sea bass (�13.95), oven roasted belly pork (�8.50) and the Star turn is "Cables Own  Fillet Steak topped with chicken liver p�t� set on a Mushroom Madeira sauce". However, I thought I'd try "Binks locally produced beef and tomato sausages with a fried onion mash" (�7.95). This looked superb and would have been of interest to a member of the Campaign for Real Sausages. Just as I had started, a large bowl of fresh vegetables arrived too. I was impressed.

Sweets are all �3.95 and in the interests of research I felt obliged to try one. Some, like Knickerbocker Glory, have an ice cream parlour theme but there are traditional ones too. As on previous occasions, the description proved too much to resist: "Hot chocolate fudge cake served on a pool of chocolate sauce with vanilla ice cream and a rosette of fresh cream". The ice cream on top of the chocolate sauce proved to be a particularly sensuous experience and the whole thing was verging on an orgy of gluttony. Feeling somewhat ashamed, I thought I'd better go home for a lie down. This is well worth a visit.

Star Inn, Batley Road, Kirkhamgate, WF2 0RZ, 01924 374431. Meals are served lunchtime and evening every day; it would be worth ringing for exact times.            Colin Williams